Springtime & Harvest

Springtime & Harvest is a sustainable womenswear brand known for its romantic silhouettes, hand-drawn prints, and thoughtful craftsmanship. Designed with both artistry and practicality in mind, the brand brings storytelling into everyday garments while prioritizing ethical production and eco-conscious materials.


The Designer:
Terriann Etana Mohamed

Terriann Etana Mohamed, founder and designer of Springtime & Harvest, brings together a background in apparel design and fine arts to create garments rooted in storytelling and seasonal inspiration.

With a clear creative vision and strong attention to detail, Terriann approached development with a high level of organization. She came prepared with patterns, construction thinking, and a deep understanding of the aesthetic she wanted to achieve.


The Problem & Opportunity

Terriann’s designs incorporated smocking (often referred to as shirring), a specialized technique that creates gathered elasticity in fabric using rows of elastic thread. While visually integral to the design, smocking introduced complexity into the development process.

The opportunity was to translate this design feature into a production-ready method that balanced aesthetic intent with technical feasibility and cost.


The Goal

Develop production-ready patterns that integrate smocking effectively while maintaining design integrity and keeping the process financially viable.


The Obstacles

Smocking is not simply a design detail—it directly impacts how and when pattern pieces are constructed.

One key challenge was determining the most efficient and financially viable construction method. Ideally, fabric can be smocked before cutting pattern pieces, which allows for greater flexibility in layout. However, this approach is significantly more expensive due to the specialized stitching required to prevent the elastic threads from unraveling when cut.

The project also required coordination with an external smocking specialist, adding additional sequencing considerations and technical planning throughout development.


The Project 

Terriann came into the project with completed patterns, which Heather reviewed and refined through a pattern audit process. Adjustments were made to ensure the designs would function correctly once smocked and assembled.

A key part of the project involved sourcing a smocking specialist. Through an industry connection, Heather connected with a specialist who could execute the smocking using machinery with multiple rows of needles and elastic thread.

This collaboration became central to the development process. The smocking required:

  • Specific row spacing (e.g., ¼", ½")

  • Careful planning around fabric dimensions and pattern layout

  • Working within machine width limitations

Because of these constraints, larger pieces sometimes needed to be smocked in sections rather than all at once, adding another layer of complexity to the pattern development.

As development progressed, the team was able to evaluate the practical realities of producing the garments at scale. While smocking achieved the desired visual effect, it also increased production complexity and cost. After exploring the technique in depth, Terriann ultimately pivoted to a more cost-effective solution using elasticated channels (drawcord tunnels) to create adjustable gathering. This approach maintained the overall aesthetic while simplifying construction and improving production feasibility.


The Process

Pattern Review and Adjustment
Terriann’s original patterns were reviewed and refined to ensure compatibility with both the smocking approach and later construction alternatives.

Smocking Exploration and Coordination
Finalized pattern pieces were printed, cut, and sent to the smocking specialist. After smocking was completed, the pieces were returned to Terriann for assembly, allowing the team to evaluate the technique in practice.

Design Adaptation
Based on cost and production considerations, the design was adapted to replace smocking with elasticated channels, allowing the wearer to control the amount of gathering.

Collaborative Workflow
This project relied on a three-part collaboration:

  • Designer (Terriann)

  • Pattern development (Heather)

  • Smocking specialist

Each step required clear communication and alignment to ensure the final garments maintained both aesthetic and functional integrity.


The Timeline

The project unfolded over approximately a year, allowing time for exploration, refinement, and informed decision-making without rushing key steps.


Outcomes

Through a structured and exploratory development process, Terriann successfully brought her designs to life and launched Springtime & Harvest.

The project demonstrated how specialized techniques like smocking can be explored during development, even if they are not carried through to final production. By testing options and understanding their implications, Terriann was able to make informed decisions that balanced design intent with cost and scalability.


Conclusion

Springtime & Harvest reflects the balance between artistry and technical execution. By working through the complexities of smocking and remaining flexible throughout the development process, Terriann was able to adapt her designs to better suit production realities without losing their original spirit.

This project highlights a common lesson in product development: exploring complex ideas is often necessary, but the final solution is not always the most technically intricate—it is the one that best balances design, function, and feasibility.

Browse Springtime & Harvest


 
 

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Heather Zager

Patternmaking and construction are my two passions, but I am skilled in all areas of apparel design and development.

https://www.madeapparelservices.com
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