Zippers are one of those everyday objects that seem remarkably simple until you take a closer look. Then questions start to emerge about types of zippers, zipper sizes, zipper anatomy, and how zippers work. What makes one type different from another? What do #3, #5, and #7 mean? Why do some zippers separate while others remain connected? And what exactly are the slider, insertion pin, and retainer box?
There’s a lot packed into something as ordinary as a zipper, so we created a guide that brings all of this information together in one place.
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Types of Zippers
Zippers are generally constructed as coil, metal, or molded plastic. Each construction creates different characteristics that affect how the zipper looks, feels, flexes, and performs.
Coil Zippers are constructed with a continuous coil, typically made from nylon or polyester.
Metal Zippers use individual metal teeth, commonly made from materials such as brass, aluminum, or nickel.
Molded Plastic Zippers, sometimes referred to as Vislon zippers, use individual molded plastic teeth.
These three basic types are only the beginning of what distinguishes one zipper from another. Zippers are also made up of different parts and components, can open and function in different ways, and come in different lengths and sizes.
Zipper Parts and Components
Understanding zipper anatomy starts with identifying the individual parts that work together to create the complete zipper. These include the tape, teeth or elements, slider, pull, stops, and, depending on the construction, pins and boxes. While many of these components are common across zippers, their form and function can differ depending on the type and construction.
How Zippers Work
Beyond the basic zipper type, the way a zipper opens can vary considerably. Some are designed to separate completely, while others create an opening but remain connected. The number and arrangement of sliders can also change how and where the zipper opens.
Separating Zippers open fully at the bottom, allowing the two sides to come completely apart.
Closed-End Zippers remain connected at the bottom.
Two-Way Zippers use two sliders, allowing the opening to be adjusted from more than one direction.
Zippers can also be designed for particular functional or visual needs. Reversible zippers can be operated from either side, invisible zippers conceal the zipper teeth when closed, and waterproof or water-resistant zippers are constructed to help limit water intrusion.
Zipper Length and Size
Zipper length and size describe two different things. Length refers to the usable length of the zipper, while size refers to the dimensions of the zipper chain and its components. This is where designations such as #3, #5, and #7 come into the picture, and why two zippers of the same length can still be very different components.
Zipper Care
Like other components used in sewn products, zippers can be affected by how a product is used, cleaned, washed, and stored. Different zipper materials and constructions can also have different care considerations. Simple practices such as keeping fabric clear of the slider, closing zippers before washing, avoiding unnecessary stress on the closure, and considering heat when working with specialty coatings can help protect both the zipper and the product around it.
Choosing the Right Zipper for Your Design
If you're developing or sewing a product of your own, understanding zipper terminology is only the beginning. The zipper also has to work with the product itself, including how it will be used, how much stress the closure will experience, how the opening needs to function, and how the zipper should look as part of the finished design. For founders developing sewn products, this is where general information about zippers becomes a series of actual design and specification decisions:
Consider the product type and use
Think about strength and durability
Determine whether the zipper should be separating or closed-end
Consider the desired appearance
Match the zipper length and size
Learn More About Zippers
There’s more to understanding zippers than we can cover in a single article. The Founder’s Guide to Materials and Components for Sewn Products takes a deeper look at zipper types, parts and components, sizing, characteristics, care, and selection, with illustrations and visual references to help make the information easier to understand. That same level of detail extends throughout the guide, with additional sections covering:
Fabrics and materials
Elastics
Buttons and snaps
Buckles and sliders
Cords and drawstrings
Hook-and-loop fasteners
Other trims, closures, hardware, and components
The more you understand about how something is made, what distinguishes one type from another, and why those differences matter, the easier it becomes to make sense of the materials and components you encounter. The guide is designed to give you that deeper understanding across the many different elements used in sewn products.
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