Elastic 101: A Designer’s Guide to Choosing and Using Elastic
Choosing the right materials for your sewn product idea can be a challenging process, especially if you lack experience or knowledge about the various materials available. Elastic is one of those materials that new designers often want to use, but fail to realize that it comes in many varieties. It’s not enough to visit a local fabric store and purchase the first package you see. Different elastic types offer different benefits.
This fundamental guide to elastic is designed to help new designers, product developers, and sewing professionals better understand their options and choose the right type of elastic for their product.
In the following sections, you’ll learn about the different types of elastic and how to choose the right one for your needs. You’ll also get guidance on how to use elastic in your design and important care tips for making the elastic in your product last as long as possible.
Part 1: The Basics of Elastic
Elastic is very useful in sewn product design because it offers flexibility, comfort, and a secure fit, adapting to different shapes and movements. Using elastic can enhance usability, simplify manufacturing, and improve product longevity, making designs more functional and user-friendly.
So, what is elastic, and how does it work so well?
It’s because elastic is a stretchable material generally made from rubber or spandex (also called elastane), wrapped in another material, such as cotton, polyester, or nylon. The design of elastic is to stretch under tension and return to its original shape, making it essential for waistbands, cuffs, and other stretchable parts of a product. In the case of swimwear, the elastic used in this material is polyurethane (clear elastic) or a rubber blend. These are both resistant to UV, salt, and chlorine.
How Does Elastic Work?
Elastic works through a simple but powerful concept: tension and recovery. When stretched, the elastic fibers temporarily elongate. Once the tension is released, the internal structure of the elastic “remembers” its original shape and contracts back.
This action is thanks to the polymer chains inside rubber or spandex, which are naturally coiled like tiny springs. As you stretch them, the coils unroll; once released, they recoil, pulling the fabric or garment back into place. The balance between stretch and recovery is what gives elastic its comfort and performance.
Part 2: Types of Elastic and Their Best Uses
While all elastic works with the same principles, there are different types of elastic you should know about, depending on the effect you’re trying to achieve in your design and what you need the elastic to do.
Braided Elastic
Braided elastic consists of parallel rows that appear slightly uneven. This elastic type narrows when stretched and loses its recovery over time. It also isn’t very soft against the skin, so it is mostly used inside a waistband casing where it won’t directly touch the skin. It does roll easily, making this elastic great for wider waist bands as it will contour against the body; however, a wider band might need support stitching down the center to prevent it from rolling, and this can limit the elastic’s ability to work correctly. This elastic is also pliable, which is great for cuffs, hems, and neckline support. The main advantage of this elastic is its low cost.
Ideal for: use inside a casing, cuffs, and necklines.
Knit Elastic
Knit elastic has a smooth appearance that is soft and stretchable. It does not narrow as you stretch it, which makes it great to sew on!
Ideal for: light to medium-weight fabrics.
Woven Elastic
Woven elastic has a pattern that looks like rows of rectangles. This elastic type is heavier duty and has the best recovery time compared to other elastics. Woven elastic does not roll up, and it is easy to sew with. It can also be cut with less negative ease than the other types of elastic since it's very strong.
What is negative ease? Negative ease is when the finished garment measurement is smaller than the corresponding body measurement. It’s what allows you to create a snug or form-fitting garment that stretches and molds to the body when worn. For example, if you want your garment to snugly fit a 36-inch bust, the garment needs to measure 35 inches, creating 1 inch of negative ease.
Ideal for: waistbands and heavy-duty use
Specialty Elastics
Specialty elastics are mainly derived from knit or braided elastics, with special elements incorporated into them. Depending on the purpose of your product, you might want to consider using one of these specialty elastic types.
Clear Elastic: perfect for swimwear, lingerie, and invisible seams
Fold Over Elastic (FOE): often used to bind the edges of underwear, babywear, and stretch trims
Drawcord Elastic: elastic with a built-in drawstring
Buttonhole Elastic: Elastic with equally spaced buttonholes in it
Part 3: How to Care for Elastic
It’s vital to know how to care for elastic both in terms of design and production, and in communication with customers. Elastic is sensitive to heat, harsh detergents, and over-stretching, so proper care is key to maintaining its performance. To extend the life of elastic in garments, it’s essential to follow the following tips:
Wash in cold or lukewarm water.
Wash on a gentle cycle.
Use mild detergent.
Avoid bleach or fabric softeners.
Always air dry when possible (high heat from dryers can break down the elastic fibers and reduce stretch recovery).
Pre-shrinking elastic before sewing can also help minimize shrinkage in finished items.
Over time, elastic may lose its stretch, feel loose, or start to fray, stiffen, or even crack—these are signs it’s time for replacement. To avoid premature wear, don’t over-stretch elastic during application, and store unused elastic in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. With proper care, your customers will love your garments because they will stay supportive, comfortable, and looking their best longer.
Choosing the Right Elastic for Your Design
Choosing an elastic that is not compatible with your design can lead to disappointing or unexpected results. That’s why it’s important to start considering which types of elastic you want for your design as early as the concepting stage. Creating your sketches and thinking about where you will need stretch will help you determine which types of elastic will be best.
To get you started, work through the following questions:
What is the weight of the fabric you’re using, and how much does it stretch?
What is the end goal for your product in terms of comfort and structure?
Where will the elastic be placed? (waistband, cuffs, neckline, under bust, etc.)
What are your wash-and-wear requirements?
How wide and thick can the elastic be?
Once you’ve made your elastic choice, there are other factors to pay attention to ensure your design turns out the way you envisioned it. Whether you’re creating your own prototype/sample or have a professional create it for you, you’ll want to avoid the following mistakes:
Sewing the stretched elastic unevenly
Overstretching the elastic during application
Failing to pre-shrink the elastic before use
Not testing stretch/recovery before production
Not getting an expert opinion on your choice
Design Smarter: Choose Elastic That Works as Hard as Your Garment
Selecting the right elastic is more than just a functional choice—it’s a design decision that impacts fit, comfort, and the longevity of your final product. Whether you're creating structured activewear, delicate lingerie, or everyday apparel, the type of elastic you choose should align with your fabric, intended use, and user experience.
Understanding the properties of the different types of elastics and how they behave under stretch and wear will help you confidently incorporate this essential material into your design concept. A well-chosen elastic not only enhances the performance of your garment but also elevates the quality of your craftsmanship.
Need help choosing the right elastic for your sewn product? Book a consultation for expert product development and material sourcing guidance.
For further reading on elastic, check out these additional resources:
>Types of Elastic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAgACO6sskk
>Joann’s Elastic Guide: https://www.joann.com/on/demandware.static/Sites-JoAnn-Site/Sites-joann-project-catalog/-/images/hi-res/project/pdf/023507P2ElasticsGuide.pdf
>Sew N Sew: https://www.sewnsew.net.au/types-of-elastic-and-their-uses/
